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About metal

About metal - stone setting ring

Metal in jewelry

Metal is the essence of jewelry, a material with history, character and unlimited potential for transformation. Before hammering, cutting or welding it, it is important to understand how it works.What it is, how it behaves, and how we choose it depending on the type of piece we want to make. Whether you work with silver, copper, brass or discover titanium and bronze, understanding the behavior of the material is the first step towards a successful piece of jewelry.

This page is an introduction to metals used in jewelry, their properties, how they react to processing and the basic tools they use to work with.

Metals used in jewelry

Both precious metals and base alloys are used in artistic and contemporary jewelry. Each has distinct properties that influence how it can be processed, finished, and worn.

About metal - Treasure garden op

Silver

  • What is a: Noble metal, very popular in jewelry due to its neutral color and ease of working.
  • Composition:
    • Pure silver (999): extremely malleable, ideal for enameling, detailed modeling, low volume parts.
    • 925 (sterling) silver: alloy with 7,5% copper, harder, more resistant, suitable for mounts, chains and functional parts.
  • Advantages: Excellent workability, compatible with many techniques.
  • Limit: Oxidizes naturally in contact with air/skin; may require maintenance.
  • Typical applications: Rings, pendants, earrings, enameled pieces, designer jewelry.

Gold

  • What is: Noble metal, particularly ductile and durable, valuable both aesthetically and symbolically.
  • Composition: It is used in various carats (14k, 18k, 22k) and colors (yellow, white, pink) depending on the alloy.
  • Advantages: Does not oxidize, stable natural gloss, high malleability.
    Limitations: High cost, requires attention to welding (different melting points).
  • Typical applications: Fine jewelry, personalized pieces, engagement/wedding rings, granulation.
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About metal - Copper Bowl 61

Copper

  • What is: Basic metal, warm in color, very affordable.
  • Composition: Pure element, but oxidizable.
  • Advantages: Low price, malleable, ideal for exercises and experimental work.
  • Limit: Oxidizes quickly (green, brown), stains skin when worn; requires protection or special finishing.
  • Typical applications: Statement jewelry, prototypes, enameling, small sculptures.

Brass

  • What is: Copper and zinc alloy, with a golden-yellow appearance.
  • Advantages: Durable, decorative appearance, affordable price.
  • Limit: May irritate the skin (oxidized zinc), not recommended for pieces worn daily in direct contact with the skin.
  • Typical applications: Bulky components, sculptural pieces, experimental design.
About metal - brass img 1
About metal - Bronzes and non-precious metals

Bronze

  • What is: An alloy of copper and tin, with a reddish-yellow hue.
  • Advantages: Durable, patinas beautifully in brown/green/blue; ideal for organic textures.
  • Limit: It oxidizes over time, has a lower melting point but requires controlled combustion.
  • Typical applications: Artistic jewelry, castings, textured plates.

Titan

  • What is: Modern metal, extremely resistant and ultra light.
  • Advantages: Biocompatible, anti-allergic, can be colored by anodizing without pigments.
  • Limit: Difficult to process, cannot be easily welded, requires special equipment.
  • Typical applications: Contemporary jewelry, light earrings, modern rings, colorful pieces.
About metal - 3588
About metal - 12592

Stainless steel

  • What is: Iron-based alloy, very hard, resistant to rust and wear.
  • Advantages: Durable, does not oxidize, cool gloss, low cost.
  • Limit: Difficult to cut and finish, difficult to modify after assembly.
  • Typical applications: Industrial jewelry, unisex accessories, minimalist pieces.
Metal
Malleability
Melting point (°C)
Skateability
Email compatible
Difficulty in processing
Silver
Very large
962
Moderate
Da
Light
Gold
Very large
1064
Scazutan
Da
Light
Copper
Seaside
1085
Very large
Partial
Light
Brass
Seaside
900–940
Seaside
Not recommended
easy-medium
Bronze
environment
850–950
Very large
Not recommended
environment
Titan
Scazutan
1668
anodizing
Nu
Difficult
Stainless steel
Scazutan
1400–1450
low
Nu
Difficult

Essential tools

Tools for drawing, marking and measuring

Before cutting or shaping metal, it's important to draw and measure accurately. These tools help you mark contours, axes, center points, or symmetries.

The scorers – used to create a small indented point in metal that serves as a reference for drilling or cutting. It helps guide the drill bit and prevents it from slipping.

Markers and markers – resembles a stiff needle or a thin steel tip, allows lines to be drawn on metal (especially before perforation)

Jewelers' rulers and squares – used for accurate measurements and drawing angles

Compass – indispensable for drawing circles, arches or establishing equal distances. Ideal for symmetrical designs, marking for stone setting, parallel edges, etc.

Calipers and calipers – used to accurately measure sheet thickness, wire diameter, stone or ring size

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About metal - ImpressArt multifunctional hammer kit

HAMMERS

For forging, shaping, planing or texturing.

  • Jeweler's hammers
  • Nylon, wooden or rubber mallets (for mark-free deformation)
  • Texturing hammers

Scroll saws and blades

A jeweler's saw is one of the most essential tools in the metalworking workshop. It allows you to cut complex shapes, precise contours, and detailed cutouts in sheet metal.

Blades are extremely important for cutting efficiency. They are numbered according to thickness and tooth size.

  • Thicker canvases (ex: 2, 1, 0) – for thick metals, rough cuts, copper and brass
  • Fine meshes (e.g. 2/0, 3/0, 4/0) – for silver, gold, fine contours and details
  • Extra-fine meshes (e.g. 5/0, 6/0, 7/0) – for extremely delicate works (plique-a-jour)

➡️ Standard recommendation:
For 0.6–1 mm silver, #2/0 or #3/0 cloth is ideal.

About metal - Cat. Courses
About metal - Vallorbe 160 mm needle file set

Pile

Files are essential tools in metalworking, used for smoothing, adjusting and finishing parts. They differ in shape, size and fineness of the teeth, an aspect known as cut.

Hand files are longer and wider, ideal for quickly removing material on large surfaces or outside edges.

  • Typical length: 20–25 cm
  • Available shapes: flat, semi-round, round, square, triangular
  • Use: external contours, smoothing after drilling, straightening

Needle files are smaller, finer, and have a thin tip. They are used for fine details, hard-to-reach places, or miniature jewelry.

  • Typical length: 14–16 cm
  • Fine and varied shapes: very useful for adjusting the inside of rings, filigree, engraved details

CUT It indicates the density and depth of the teeth on the file surface, basically how aggressive the file is in cutting the material.

  • Cut 00, 0, 1 – coarse, for quick removal (raw piles)
  • Cut 2, 3, 4 – medium, for intermediate finish
  • Cut 5–8 – fine, for polishing and final details

➡️ The higher the cut number, the finer and denser the teeth.

Approximate example:

  • Cut 0 – ~20 teeth per centimeter
  • Cut 6 – ~75–80 teeth per centimeter

Torches and heat equipment

Torches are essential in the jewelry workshop, for welding, melting, but also for annealing (the process of thermally softening metal to make it malleable again, sometimes colloquially called "annealing").

  • Butane or propane gas torches – for precise welding, annealing or thermal texturing
  • Nozzles of different sizes – depending on the volume and fineness of the work
  • Refractory bricks, heat-resistant tweezers, bonding supports – not only protects the work surface, but also helps direct and maintain heat in the work area, for efficient welding and better thermal control.

???? Annealing is especially essential after repeated rolling, bending, or hammering – times when the metal becomes hard and brittle.

About metal - molten solder
About metal - Scaled grinding wheels e1737629789647

Finishing and polishing accessories

After cutting, forming and welding, any piece of jewelry needs a careful finishing step. This includes smoothing the surfaces, removing scratches, rounding the edges, grinding and polishing to a mirror shine (or achieving a satin effect, if desired).

Flexible abrasives
  • Abrasive sponges – available in granulations from coarse to ultra-fine; adapt to curved shapes
  • Abrasive belts or sheets – ideal for flat surfaces or edges
  • Abrasive discs on spindle – mounted in mini-mills or chucks
Rotating brushes
  • Brass brushes – for easy cleaning of soft metals (e.g. copper, bronze)
  • Stainless steel brushes – for light cleaning or texturing of silver or steel
  • Cotton, felt or cloth brushes – for applying polishing compounds
Polishing wheels
  • Felt wheels – compact, for smooth areas
  • Pleated cloth wheels – for large or curved surfaces
  • Microfiber coated discs – for final polishing without abrasive paste
Polishing compounds

It is applied to polishing wheels or textile discs.

  • Tripoli (brown, brick red) – for pre-polishing; removes fine scratches
  • Rouge (red, white, green) – for final polishing; provides high gloss (differentiated by metal type)
Silicone rubber wheels
  • For controlled sanding without distorting details
  • Available in various hardnesses and shapes: conical, cylindrical, flat discs, etc.

🧼 For optimal results, the finishing process is done in stages: from coarse abrasive → fine → pre-polishing → final polishing.

Basic techniques in metalworking

  • Soldering – joining components using a torch and an alloy called solder
  • Forge – specific technique in which metal is repeatedly hammered to stretch, bend, or shape it into defined shapes. In jewelry, it is usually practiced cold, with intermediate annealing if necessary.
  • Texturing – by stamping, hammering, laminating or engraving
  • Cold forming – includes all methods of shaping metal without heating: bending, rolling, twisting, folding, mechanical adjustments.
  • reticular – thermal texturing, whereby a piece of silver alloy is repeatedly heated until the inner layer begins to partially melt, and the surface creates waves, wrinkles and organic effects
  • Hand engraving – decorative technique used to create drawings, lines, text or symbols directly on the metal surface, through controlled incision
  • Oxidation and patination – chemical or thermal treatments to change the color of the metal

Metal has been the basis of jewelry since ancient times. Understanding the structure, behavior and possibilities of each type of metal means working more informed and creatively. At Artkimia, we believe that learning traditional techniques is the basis for innovating and creating freely.

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Discover the workshop courses

About metal - Curved Folding paper clay Corina Gheorghe
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About metal - Electroplating Gaston Rois
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About metal - Gaston Rois e1746542717461
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About Metal - Clement Marquaire Headshot
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