SUMMER PROGRAM SCHEDULE** Hello! During the period 17-22 July 2025 Showroom pickup is not available! The online store remains OPEN and orders placed during this time will be processed with slight delays. Thank you for your understanding! 

How to work Mokume-Gane

What you need to work Mokume-gane

Mokume-gane is a fascinating technique, but one that involves rigor, attention to detail and proper equipment. This page provides a clear look at the materials, tools and working conditions needed to start working with Mokume-gane, either through traditional methods or modern variations with metal clayFinally, we also present some methods proposed by Art Clay, which offer affordable alternatives for diffusing metals in small, home workshops.

Traditional Mokume-gane

This is the classic method used by professional jewelers. It involves working with sheet metal, high temperatures, and industrial or semi-professional equipment. It is considered an advanced technique that offers spectacular results when done correctly.

1. Choosing the right materials

  • Clean and well-degreased metal sheets, usually:
    • Copper
    • Silver (preferably fine)
    • Aur diferite carate: de la 18k la 22k sunt cele mai folosite, în special pentru culoarea și maleabilitatea lor. Aurul galben este tradițional, dar se pot folosi și variante roz sau albe, cu condiția să fie compatibile pentru difuzie
    • Shakudo, shibuichi
  • Layers of equal thickness or harmoniously combined (e.g. 0,5 mm by 1 mm).
  • It is recommended that the Mokume-gane package consist of at least 10–12 layers, and in traditional practice 25 layers are frequently used to achieve a rich and expressive pattern. The number of layers directly influences the visual complexity and stability of the final piece.
How to work Mokume-Gane - metal sheets
How to work Mokume-Gane - Rolling mills

2. Tools and equipment

  • Hydraulic press or vise (for compression)
  • Cuptor care poate atinge temperaturi înalte (800–950°C)
  • Hammers, anvil, rolling mill (for further deformation and shaping of the cast part)
  • Welding/diffusion flux (e.g. borax), used to prevent oxidation during heating and to promote clean contact between layers
  • Metal clamps or pressing system (for fixing the metal package during firing)
  • Devices for slow cooling (annealing), necessary to release internal stresses and obtain a stable structure, easy to process later

3. Working conditions

  • Absolute cleaning of metals: oxides or grease can compromise diffusion, therefore fine mechanical grinding, degreasing with isopropyl alcohol and handling with clean gloves are recommended.
  • Well-controlled temperatures: too much variation can compromise the formation of the metallurgical bond or lead to unwanted oxidation.
  • Sufficient exposure time to temperature (diffusion occurs slowly and requires maintaining a constant temperature for a period of at least 10–30 minutes, depending on the thickness and nature of the metals).
  • Constant pressure and perfect alignment between layers: to prevent void formation or delamination during subsequent deformation.
How to work Mokume-Gane - jewelry tools

Mokume-gane with metal clay

This variant is suitable for artists who already work with metal clay and want to explore the effects of layering. Although it does not require mechanical forging, it does involve a good understanding of the behavior of metal clays during sintering. It is ideal for small and intermediate workshops.

1. Required materials

  • Silver clay (Art Clay Silver)
  • Copper clay compatible with same-cycle firing (Art Clay Copper)
  • Optional: paste for corrections and bonding between layers
How to work Mokume-Gane - metal clay category
How to work Mokume-Gane - workshop tools

2. Tools and equipment

  • Acrylic roller, spacers for rolling thickness
  • Precision cutters
    Tweezers, modeling tools
  • Precisely controlled furnace capable of reaching 780°C
  • Combustion medium: activated carbon
  • Brushes, files, abrasive sponges, sandpaper

3. Working conditions

  • Careful shaping of layers to prevent air gaps
  • Complete drying before firing
  • Strict adherence to the combustion curve recommended by the manufacturer, in two stages
How to work Mokume-Gane - DSC0227 1 scaled

Variants proposed by Art Clay for diffusion between metal sheets

These methods are modern, accessible and safe adaptations designed to allow Mokume-gane to be made in small workshops. They eliminate the need for industrial equipment and rely on alternative firing or oxidation protection media. They can be applied even by beginners, provided they carefully follow the technical steps.

1. Assisted diffusion in reduced medium (with activated carbon)

Art Clay proposes a modern method, inspired by the traditional technique, but adapted to the conditions of today's workshops. Instead of the classic diffusion in a controlled atmosphere, diffusion between metals can be achieved by burning the package of metal sheets (e.g. copper and silver) in a reducing environment, such as activated carbon.

By compressing and bonding the layers, then firing them in an electric furnace in activated carbon (without oxygen), oxidation is avoided and metallic diffusion between the sheets is allowed. This technique is affordable and safe, making Mokume-gane possible even in small workshops.

2. Diffusion in open atmosphere with silver paste

O altă variantă practică propusă de Art Clay elimină necesitatea carbonului activ. În această metodă, pachetul cu foi de cupru și argint este strâns și acoperit complet cu pastă de argint, care apoi se usucă bine înainte de încălzire. Pasta formează o peliculă protectoare ce limitează oxidarea în timpul arderii și acționează ca un strat de protecție și flux în același timp.
The firing is done directly in the furnace, in an open atmosphere. If the package is well compressed and the layers are clean, diffusion between the metals takes place, and the result is a solid joint, suitable for further processing. This method is simple, effective and accessible for small workshops that do not have special equipment.

Safety and working environment

  • Good ventilation in the work space
  • Thermal protection and safety glasses
  • High temperature resistant gloves

Conclusion

Regardless of the method chosen, it is important to understand the principle of diffusion well and to respect the essential conditions: cleanliness, pressure, heat and time. If you are a beginner, we recommend that you first experiment with the activated carbon method or with metal clay, then explore traditional methods in a guided setting.

How to work Mokume-Gane - jewelry tools

Discover the courses about Mokume-Gane

How to work Mokume-Gane - mokume
Date will be announced soon.
Consultant
How to work Mokume-Gane - corina small profile 200x200 1
Corina Gheorghe

650,00lei (VAT included)

Welcome to the new website artkimia.com

Please create a new account to benefit from all the functionalities. 

If you need information from your customer account or if the new site no longer has a functionality that the old one had that you needed, don't hesitate to contact us!