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SUMMER PROGRAM SCHEDULE** Hello! During the period 17-22 July 2025 Showroom pickup is not available! The online store remains OPEN and orders placed during this time will be processed with slight delays. Thank you for your understanding!
To work effectively with metal, it's not enough to just know the processing techniques — it's also important to understand how metal works as a material: how it reacts to stress, heat, impact, or oxidation, how it's influenced by its chemical composition, and what makes it suitable for one piece or another. This page provides an overview of the basic concepts of metallurgy, clearly explained and applied, for jewelers.
An alloy is a mixture of two or more metals, designed to achieve specific combinations of properties. The alloy is applied to modify the hardness, color, melting point, or oxidation behavior of the base metal.
In jewelry, alloys are used to modify the properties of pure metals, which are often too soft or unstable to be worn safely.
Examples:
Why are alloys used:
Work hardening is the phenomenon by which a metal becomes harder and stiffer as it is cold-formed (by hammering, rolling, bending, etc.). While it seems like an advantage, excessive work hardening can lead to cracking if not managed properly.
Signs that the metal is hardened:
Solution: periodic annealing (see below)
Annealing is a heat treatment by which metal is recrystallized (softened) after deformation. It is done by heating the part to a certain temperature, followed by slow (or rapid, depending on the metal) cooling.
Goals:
Example: After you roll a sheet of silver several times, it becomes stiff and difficult to bend. A short annealing makes it flexible again.
When a metal reacts with oxygen in the air or other substances (leather, acids, sulfur), oxidation occurs. This can be considered a problem (tarnishing, loss of luster) or an aesthetic patination technique.
Natural oxidation: appears over time (especially in copper, bronze, silver)
Controlled skating: the deliberate use of oxidation for a decorative effect, with sulfur, heat, or special substances
Protection: waxes, varnishes, special finishes can preserve the desired appearance
These properties influence the choice of metal depending on the piece: an engagement ring needs hardness, a textile bracelet with metal inserts needs elasticity and ductility.
Because it allows you to:
Even if you're not a metallurgist, knowing how metals think makes you a better jeweler.
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